A small island with limited transport
Koh Samui is Thailand’s second-largest island, but Rough Guides puts it at only about 15 kilometres across, with a round-island road of about 50 kilometres. It is well developed, yet getting around is not always easy. Lonely Planet notes that local transport is limited, taxis often work to set or negotiated prices, and ride-hailing apps are of little use.
Lonely Planet calls a rented scooter the easiest way to get around, but you need an international driving licence, and it advises against riding after dark. If you will not ride, choose a base where you can walk to the beach and to dinner, because every outing elsewhere becomes a taxi.
The east coast, for energy and choice
Chaweng is Samui’s longest and busiest beach. Rough Guides calls it the island’s most appealing strand but also its most heavily and densely developed, and the most expensive place to stay, with by far the widest range of amenities and nightlife. Stay here if you want beach clubs, restaurants and people-watching on your doorstep.
Lamai, Chaweng’s slightly smaller neighbour, is a little less polished and still has plenty of budget bungalow resorts, according to Rough Guides. It has its own landmarks, including the Hin Ta and Hin Yai rock formations and Wat Lamai. For something calmer on this side, Choeng Mon in the north-east corner is a small, tranquil bay with a handful of upmarket hotels, within easy reach of Chaweng’s nightlife.
The north coast, for a village feel
Bophut is generally more sophisticated, Rough Guides says, with boutique resorts, good restaurants and a beachfront village with a Mediterranean feel. That village is the Fisherman’s Village, where Lonely Planet describes narrow Chinese shophouses turned into places to shop and eat, seafood restaurants along the beach and a night market in the evening.
Next door, Mae Nam is quieter again, with room to breathe between the beach and the ring road. Lonely Planet describes Bophut and Mae Nam as laid-back, scenic beaches popular with locals and long-stayers. This coast suits you if you want an evening stroll and a good dinner rather than a late night.
The west and south, for space
On the west coast, Lonely Planet singles out Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi as great for swimming, and points to Ao Phang Ka in the south for a real escape. These are the coasts to choose if a quiet beach and a sunset view are the whole point of the stay.
The trade-off is distance. Chaweng has by far the widest range of amenities and nightlife, and the Fisherman’s Village is on the north coast, so plan on a scooter, taxis or a resort with enough on site to keep you happy.
| Coast | Best for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| East (Chaweng, Lamai, Choeng Mon) | Nightlife, restaurants and the widest choice of places to stay. | Busiest and, at Chaweng, most expensive; the northeast monsoon can bring high waves and strong currents to this coast. |
| North (Bophut, Mae Nam) | A village atmosphere, the Fisherman’s Village and quieter beaches. | Less nightlife; you may travel to Chaweng for it. |
| West and south (Lipa Noi, Taling Ngam, Ao Phang Ka) | Space, good swimming beaches and a slower pace. | Farther from the busiest areas; plan how you will get around. |
Samui’s rain follows the Gulf, not the Andaman
Samui’s weather does not follow Phuket’s. The Thai Meteorological Department places Surat Thani province, which includes Samui, on the east coast of southern Thailand, where abundant rain continues after the southwest monsoon ends. Rainfall there usually peaks in November and can last into January.
Rough Guides says the northeast monsoon blows hardest in November but can bring rain at any time from October to January, and sometimes causes high waves and strong currents, especially on the east coast. From May to October, the southwest monsoon brings some rain to the west coast. Lonely Planet adds that downpours in the wet season tend to come in short late-afternoon and evening spells, and that December to early April is the driest period.
If you are visiting in early October, you are arriving at the start of Samui’s wetter months. Keep your first plans flexible, check the sea before you swim, and choose a base with something to enjoy on a rainy afternoon.